Austin Ten Drivers Club

Hi there, Today I go collect my 12 first time venture into prewar so feeling a little nervous but the deal is done and money has exchanged hands so shes coming home

The car was supplied from New Zealand and carries the logo on the dash of a christchurch dealer out in NZ but now back in the UK

Is this vehicle known to the club and any good tips on what to check before I venture out, She starts on the button but im thinking maybe a change of all the oils and coolant etc which has taken me into a minefield of which lubricants to buy. My head is full of info at the min and trying to process all the stuff im reading on here .

Its made worse by the fact that i collect the car tonight (too far to drive on our first date) and then im away for a week which will drive me made lol

Any top tips and guidance greatly appreciated im located in Wakefield so anyone local with one ?

Thanks

Paul

Paul
Firstly congratulations on choosing an Austin 12 Ascot as your venture into oldtime motoring pleasure.

The car is not known to the club under the registration AEF 830 A. That is a very strange reg. No. to be allocated to it by DVLA as it is not "age-related" being a No. first issued in 1963! You will be avble to get help from the club to obtain a more appropriate 6 digit No.

You have not given a date for your Ascot or said which engine it has. Broadly there are three models:

• "Chrome-Rad" Ascot 1934 - exposed radiator model - choice of 3-engines, 4-cyl and 2 x 6-cyl
• "Cowled-Rad" Ascot Aug 1934 to July 1936. As above choice of 3 engines.
• New Ascot - Aug 1936 to May 1939 with a mid-life update during that time. Only available as 4 cyl (6 cyl car became the 14 Goodwood)

A change of all fluids on acquiring a s/h car is always a good idea. Engine oil recommended by Austin (and the club) is SAE40, same for gearbox. Some members (including me) use classic multigrade SAE 20/50 but this contains detergents so is only wise if the engine has always used the same oil; they shift the muck & it can block the oilways and wreck the bearings. Back axle is D140. Axle has bronze bushes so avoid EP oils (whatever others may claim). Good source of cheap classic oils is Rye Oils but these oils are widely available from many sources: Castrol, Morris Oils, Comma etc. Coolant - in summer just water. I use rainwater or deionised water (as for steam irons) as I live in a hard water area. In winter drain off or use classic blue antifreeze mixed about 25%. I use antifreeze mix all year. It saves the cost of heating the garage in winter. Once had an old-style paraffin heater but it made the lockup garage very damp.

Driving. Everything takes a little longer with a pre-war car and it needs more space in front (even with the Girling-braked New Ascot). You may also find it strange to actually be able to feel the road through the steering. Even without power steering once on the move finger tip touch is all you need on the big wheel.
Servicing & Maintaining. The simple and sturdy design means you can do much yourself with few specialised tools. Lots of guidance available to club members online and elsewhere, if you are lucky local members who may be willing to help or advise. BTW there is no such thing as a stupid question: I have been involved with Austin10s for over 50 years and am still learning about them.
Enjoy
PeterW

Welcome to the fold. Great choice in car, I have a 12/4 myself and love it even when its not working and needs fixing
If you have not joined the club I do suggest you do so as there is a lot of valuable information available.

Doing a full fluid change is your best bet and then you know where you stand (the club has a tech sheet on this) and also grease all your grease points

A few things to look over
1) check the belt has not been rubbing on the bottom radiator hose. Then run very close and is common to see them cutting into the hose. You can use a old beans can as a sheild around the hose
2) With the wire wheels check the spokes are not loose and no cracks (club tech sheet covers this)
3) check the springs are greased and check the bushes are not worn
4) check the fuel lines. They are orriginally all copper but if any section has been replaced with rubber be mindful to inspect on a regular basis as modern rubber fuel hose is crap.

Tools

You will want a good set of Whitworth spanners and a couple of screwdrivers. That covers most jobs
I carry a spare cap and rotor and a set of plugs along with a selection of nuts and bolts not that I have had to do any road side repairs. (also points if you are on points)

Welcome to the world of Austins Paul. Pete and Dai have covered just about everything other than the odd registration number. The DVLA used to issue A suffix registration numbers back in the 90s-00s when a car was robbed of its original registration number, or had been imported, so the car may have been here before, or has been here for a while!

I’m sure the club will be able to help you get a suitable registration number.

Thanks all the car was exported new to New Zealand and still carries he Christchurch sticker on the dash so prob explains the reg, In doing some lectrical work on the rear lights I have the nmber plate off and you can see the remnants below of another number that from memory is a H reg so again a little odd

Working my way through replacing the attrocious wiring to get some lights on there so I can at least use it

P

If you are stuck Autosparks sell a replacement wiring loom

Hi Paul, I live in Castleford so not too far away, I have a 1934 Chrome Rad 10/4. Mike Hobson

Hi that's great I'm in ossett so practically around the corner

I'm just trying to get things so I can drive her currently, she's missing under load but ricks over ok. Just fixed a water leak (hopefully )